Tag Archives: yarn

The SkeinMinder and Economies of Scale

There are 5 days left on the SkeinMinder Kickstarter campaign, and a few people have whispered this question in my ear: What if it doesn’t fund?  No need to whisper or wonder, let’s flat-out talk about the big white elephant.

Let’s back up a little and first ask, “Why is the goal of the campaign to sell 100 SkeinMinders and not 20 or 30?”  It comes down to a simple manufacturing principle – economies of scale.  As the quantity of something you build goes up, the per unit cost of building it goes down.  Dyers should already be familiar with this concept, since hand-dyeing is manufacturing.  It may be small-batch pretty manufacturing, but the same principles apply.  Both parts cost and labor cost goes down when you increase your batch size.

Let’s look at parts cost first.  I’ve priced out the parts for the SkeinMinder at several different build qtys, below is a graph of these.

SkeinMinder BOM_Chart1

The cost is normalized (compared to) a build quantity of 100.  Since I based SkeinMinder pricing off of the 100-build cost, I’m calling it the normal, 100% parts cost.  The parts cost for building 20 SkeinMinders is 200%, or 2X the cost of building 100.  The parts cost for building a single SkeinMinder is 400%, or 4X the cost for 100.  Dyers see this a little bit – buying 10 pounds of yarn is cheaper per pound than buying 1 pound.  Dye cost decreases when you buy larger qtys.  The reason that the curve for the SkeinMinder (and electronics manufacturing in general) is so steep is that there are over 100 parts in the SkeinMinder.  Some of the parts are also custom made, and quantity really has a huge impact on those because specialized human labor is involved.

Which brings us to labor costs.  This should be more familiar for dyers.  You have to do the same tasks whether you’re dyeing 1 skein of yarn or 10 skeins.  You still have to heat up water, you still have to mix (or extract) your dye, you still have to wash the yarn and dry it.  Doing this for 10 skeins may take 2-3 times as long as doing this for 1, but it doesn’t take 10 times as long.  Therefore, your cost of labor per skein goes down.  For the SkeinMinder, I estimate that it’ll take about twice as long to make 100 as it will to make 20.  So my per unit labor cost for making 20 is 2.5X the per unit cost for making 100.

With 2.5X labor cost and 2X parts cost, it should be pretty obvious that the SkeinMinder will also have a different viable sale price depending on if it’s manufactured in a batch of 20 or a batch of 100.  In order to keep the final SkeinMinder sale price as low as I could ($365), I based it off the 100 qty cost.  This is why I also had to make the campaign goal selling 100.  (Note: the actual campaign total is slightly more complicated because there are non-SkeinMinder yarn rewards as well, which all have additional costs.  Plus Kickstarter fees and shipping counts toward the total, so those have to be factored in as well.)  If I set the campaign goal lower and met it but only sold 20 SkeinMinders, I’d be in trouble.  They’d be much more expensive to build, and I’d end up losing money.

Which of course brings up another question, “Couldn’t you build 100 now anyway, and sell the rest of them later?”  This is a topic that dyers should also be familiar with – the significant cost of holding inventory (aka – another way to lose money).  If it funded at a lower goal, I’d likely have just enough money to fulfill the non-SkeinMinder rewards plus (hopefully) buy parts for 100.  But then I wouldn’t be compensated at all for my labor.  I’d still be spending time buying parts, scheduling everything, and managing vendors.  I’d still have to spend time assembling SkeinMinders.  Sure, I could delay assembly until I’ve actually sold the remainder, but guess what?  Remember that 2.5X labor cost for assembling batches of 20 vs 100?  Yep, I’ve just increased my unit cost by assembling them in smaller batches.

So the case of building 100 when I haven’t sold 100 turns into a big cashflow problem.  All the money I raised would be tied up in inventory, and I wouldn’t be compensated for my labor until the rest sold.  Which, judging from the campaign, might take 3-5 years for all 100.  Dyers who retail should understand the cost of inventory on a deep personal level, because the following scenario has probably happened to all of us at some point.  You have a show coming up in 2 months.  You spend money up front buying yarn and dyes.  You spend 2 months dyeing yarn for the show full-time.  You have auxiliary expenses of show fees, advertising, etc.  Then you go to the show and…..you don’t sell nearly as much as you thought you would.  You’ve covered your show expenses and parts cost, but don’t have enough left over to compensate yourself for your 2 months of labor preparing for the show.  Which means you have to find some other way of paying your rent and groceries for those months, and your money is tied up in your leftover yarn until it sells.  So you’re a bit stuck cash-wise.

Basically, the point of the Kickstarter campaign is to avoid the above scenario.  Sales happen up-front, which funds the cost of parts, and the labor for the time it takes to make them.  The number of sales is a known quantity, so I avoid guessing and making too many, then being stuck with a bunch of inventory and not able to pay myself.  So it brings us back to the original question – what happens if the Kickstarter doesn’t fund?  Is it just not economically viable and no more SkeinMinders will ever be made?  Is there no hope for winding efficiency and tools for hand dyers????

Don’t worry, the show will go on.  It’ll just be a slightly different show.  If the campaign doesn’t fund, it proves that the market isn’t big enough to support a run of 100 SkeinMinders.  There’s still a market, and I’m happy to say that the people who want a SkeinMinder (or another SkeinMinder) are quite vehement in their demand, but it’s smaller.  So I’ll have to make them in smaller batches, which means that I’ll have to increase the price.

I’m working on pricing now, and even though my costs for making 20 will be over 2X what they are for making 100, the final price won’t be 2X.  I just don’t think that would be viable from a customer perspective.  I’m looking at margins, and figuring out a price and a way to build them that will be economically neutral.  Meaning that my time will be fairly compensated, but there won’t be enough margin to make it a self-sustaining manufacturing line (there won’t be enough profit to buy parts for the next batch and keep a continuous production cycle going).  It’ll likely be a build-to-order product with about a 3 month lead time.  I’ll take a deposit up-front in order to split the financial risk between me and the customer.  If I charged the full amount up front, the customer is fronting the entire cost and trusting me to deliver.  (Which of course I will, but it’s not guaranteed from the customer’s perspective.)  If I waited until just prior to shipping to charge anything, I’d have to front the entire cost and trust the customer to not change their mind.  A 50-50 split allows me to at least cover the parts cost up front, and it commits the customer without putting the entire burden on them.  I’d handle orders through my own website, not another crowdfunding campaign.

Ok, cool.  So why should you still bother to back the Kickstarter?  From my perspective, it gives me a much clearer idea of the demand, so that I can price it for the right batch size.  I can’t guarantee that everyone who backs at $365 will necessarily back at a higher price, but it’s a really good starting point.  Also, I super appreciate everyone who was willing to commit to the Kickstarter.  If you end up ordering a SkeinMinder from me directly, I’ll see if I can do a small discount, and I’ll at least throw in free shipping.

From your perspective, if you want a SkeinMinder, you can’t lose by backing the campaign.  Kickstarter is all-or-nothing, so if it doesn’t reach the funding goal, you won’t be charged.  Nothing happens, you keep your money.  If you still decide to buy a SkeinMinder at the higher price, you’ll be able to order one through my website.  And hey, if Kickstarter does actually fund – awesome!  You’ve helped to make it happen (seriously, backers attract more backers!) and you get a SkeinMinder at a lower price than you otherwise would.

To all my backers – thank you so much for your support.  Even if it doesn’t fund, it’s definitely been a worthwhile experience.  And I know more now than I did 40 days ago, which is always valuable.  :)   Now to write a few more emails because it ain’t over til it’s over.

-Carrie


The SkeinMinder is on Kickstarter!

SkeinMinder Postcard Kickstarter_Page_1

I’m pretty excited to finally be able to write that and tell you all about it!  Well, mostly.  I have to admit, I’ve done more writing in the past couple of months than I think I have in the past 5 years combined.  I wrote personal emails to many many dyers, wrote a new SkeinMinder website, wrote the entire Kickstarter campaign, wrote a bunch about it in my Ravelry Group, and now writing more here!  It’s a good thing I like to write.

In any case, I don’t want this blog post to just repeat what you can already find on the website or Kickstarter campaign.  I’ve kept my blog a little more personal, a little more behind-the-scenes, a little more of a direct pipe from my brain to your eyeballs.  So I’ll keep the pitch short – the SkeinMinder is a tool for indie dyers.  It automates their existing motorized skein winders.  You can plug in your winder, set it to a number of rotations, and the SkeinMinder will keep track of them, and automatically stop your winder for you.  It may not sound like much to knitters, but for dyers with table-top winders, it’s revolutionary.  You can read more about life with and without a SkeinMinder on the campaign page.

When I say that the SkeinMinder is the best project I’ve done, I really do mean it.  Sure, I’ve worked on way flashier cutting-edge tech projects that were pushing the limits of what you could do with off-the-shelf electronics.  The work was fun, and I love an impossible challenge.  The SkeinMinder is comparatively simple from an electronics standpoint, but it has an element of personal connection that is rarely present in a pure tech project.  What I mean by this is that I’m actually improving people’s lives.  I realize I’m not feeding starving children or curing cancer or anything, but I’m making a huge impact on people that kind of mean a lot to me – indie dyers.

There aren’t many businesses who cater to the needs of indie dyers.  We’re a very small niche, we pop up and disappear all the time, and we tend to run our businesses without a lot of spare cash.  Newsflash, right?  Dyeing yarn is a lot of hard work for very little pay.  Lots of personal satisfaction, sure, but not a lot of dollars.  So who would actually try to make tools and sell them to this market?  You’d be marketing to a group of people that don’t really function as an industry, don’t have an official organization or network, have a high turnover rate, and are struggling to be profitable.  Pretty much only another person with a passion for dyeing would attempt this. To anyone else, it’s just a losing proposition.

You can see this with the main tool that indie dyers use – skein winders.  They’re all made by other dyers, or the spouses of dyers.  They’re expensive because they’re made in small quantities – one, five, or maybe 10 at a time if business is screaming.  The SkeinMinder faces the same challenge, but even more so because it’s an electronics product.  It’s possible to make electronics in small quantities, but not at a price at which you can turn them around and sell them to someone else.  You need to build batches of about 100 for the cost of parts and manufacturing to fall enough for that.

This is why the SkeinMinder’s Kickstarter goal is $65,000.  The stack-up goes like this: I need to make 100 in order to sell them as low as $365 each.  Add fees, shipping, and start-up costs to that.  And then, in order to ship in August, I’m going to have to work on the SkeinMinder full-time for 4 months.  I’m not going to be able to dye yarn (other than what I’m dyeing for the Kickstarter rewards), and I’m not going to be able to do any consulting work.  So it has to be able to pay me a fair and reasonable wage for that amount of time.

Making the SkeinMinder is a bit like hand-dyeing yarn – it’s mostly a labor of love.  I don’t know if dyers are a big enough market that I can sell 100 of them.  I really don’t know if I can actually reach the majority of hand dyers by the end of March.  This is where you come in.  (You were waiting for this part, right?)  Yes, backing the campaign is super awesome and you will have my gratitude until my dyeing breath (see what I did there?).  But what’s even more awesome is spreading the word about the SkeinMinder.  Dyers tend to the get their news from other knitters, so the more knitters who know about it, the more the word will spread to dyers.  Sharing, re-posting, re-gramming, re-tweeting, blogging, and podcasting all make a huge difference.  Thank you to everyone who has done that so far!

I really hope that I can reach out to dyers everywhere.  And not just because I want to work on SkeinMinders for the next 4 months, but because I truly want dyers to have better tools.  Wrangling yarn is so much work, anything to make it just a little bit easier is so worth it.  When my beta group wrote me their testimonials, I actually might have shed a tear or two.  Their workflow improved so much and they were so grateful for it – I was moved.  Every engineer’s dream is to make something that people love.  And here I am, living the dream.  Now to do everything I can to make it come true.

Join us on kickstarter 2

<3,

-Carrie


The Process of SkeinMinder Design

It’s been a pretty busy couple of months!  I’ve been going full speed on SkeinMinder design, whipping it into production-ready shape.  When I show the pre-production Minder to my non-engineery friends, they tend to get a glazed look in their eyes, shake their head, and think that I’ve somehow magically conjured this mysterious circuit-board-thing out of thin air.  Well, it’s not magic, though it still feels kind of magical when you email files off and get real parts in the mail.  And it’s even more magical when those parts actually work just like you expect them to.  OK, maybe there is some magic involved.  And magnets.  There are definitely magnets.

But seriously, how does one techie chick with a computer and a small home workshop (and maybe like 12 years of PCB widget manufacturing experience) pull off a serious product design?  Let’s find out!

First, I cobbled together a proof-of-concept model out of off-the-shelf-parts, jumper wires, and breadboards.  (Apparently the original electronics breadboards really were boards used for cutting bread.  Crazy, eh?)  This let me play around with the idea without spending a lot of money.  A lot of ideas seem simple at first, but when you actually try to implement them, they grow in complexity.  A proof-of-concept allows you to suss out the main technical challenges right away.  Most of the software development I’ve done, and probably the setup with the most winding hours on it, is my initial messy-looking jumble-of-wires POC model:

Not too inspiring-looking, huh?  I cobbled together an Arduino Mega2560 processor board, an LCD and some buttons on a breadboard, and I started off with a Powerswitch Tail for turning on and off AC power.  Pretty much all of these parts are plug-and-play.  I didn’t even solder anything.  After a couple months of pulling C programming out of very dusty corners of my brain, I had something that totally worked.  Yay!

You might think that at that point, the majority of the work was done.  Heh.  The real work had just begun.

Ok, so I had this thing that totally “worked” on the bench.  Too bad that I couldn’t move it from the bench for fear of the wires coming loose.  Not to mention that when I wiggled some of them, weird things would happen.  Enter Phase 2 (aka, the ??? phase).  I needed to make a prototype.  And not just one that I could move around, but one that I could give to someone else to use.  Other people will always do things you didn’t expect.  Especially in the SkeinMinder’s case – every dyer has a slightly different setup.  We have different brands of winders, different swifts, we wind different numbers of skeins at a time of different types of yarn.  It was impossible to sit on my couch and predict how all of those factors would affect the Minder’s behavior.  So I got my first prototype into the hands of a dyer friend pretty early.  I wanted to know if the assumptions I made about how the Minder would be used corresponded to the reality of how it was actually used.

Better-looking, right?  The prototype was a first shot at parts I thought I would actually use in the production unit.  The Mega2560 was totally overkill for the job, so I switched to an Arduino Pro Mini with the 328P chip.  I soldered the breadboards together, wired up buttons and connectors, and shoved everything in a generic box.  I still kept the 120VAC switching as a separate Powerswitch Tail unit, though I also started to prototype my own power-switching unit using a Sparkfun SSR kit.  I also bought a lot of experimental parts at the time.  I think I went through 8 LCD displays, at least a dozen large buttons, and probably 50 small buttons until I got the look and feel that I wanted.  While simultaneously making sure the parts were readily available and wouldn’t make the Minder too expensive.  It turns out that 90% of good engineering design is being good at shopping.

One person testing your design is great, but more is better.  I decided to form a beta group of about 5 companies, all with different winders and winding needs.  I put out a few feelers to friends and colleagues, and happily got immediate and highly interested responses.  That was incredibly inspirational and motivational.  I had been trying to decide how “real” to make the beta units.  I knew I couldn’t hand-wire 5-10 more units like I had the prototype, there was too much wiring, too much potential for mistakes or intermittent connections.  After seeing those responses, I pretty much knew my answer.

Twelve years of experience with making electronics widgets has taught me this: when you think you have everything totally designed for production and set, you generally will learn something new from those units and need one more revision.  It seemed like the right thing to do was this: make what I considered to be completely ready production units, and deliver those to the beta group.  They’d still probably need one more revision, but it was not likely to be major.  I want to have a pretty well vetted design before launching a Kickstarter campaign for the SkeinMinder.  Pre-selling a mostly new design as a production unit is really just a recipe for missed expectations and a faking-your-own-death-on-the-internet style of disaster.

Designing for production, then.  Let’s do this custom circuit board thing!  This is probably the most magical step to most people.  It’s still pretty darned cool to me too.  I mean, I basically play an advanced version of connect-the-dots for a while and generate something that looks like this:

SM Processor Snapshot

And then I upload and order it and get a rendering that looks like this:

And then the actual part comes in the mail and looks like this:

And then when it’s all soldered together, it looks like this:

And when the code is loaded and it’s up and running, it looks like this:

Ideas to reality, just like that!

While I was designing the circuit boards (there are 2 in the SkeinMinder), I was simultaneously developing the mechanical box design and layout.  There are a lot of mechanical constraints – connectors are a certain size and some are relatively fixed, the LCD is a certain height, the small buttons are a different height that need to be adjusted to correspond to LCD height, the big red button is a certain depth, the power switching parts need clearances and heat sinks, the buttons need to be far enough apart to push easily, and NEVER FORGET TO LEAVE ROOM FOR MOUNTING HOLES.  To top it off, circuit boards are generally priced by the square inch.  So the smaller you can make them, the less expensive they will be to make.  Does this sound like a bunch of conflicting requirements that requires a good deal of spacial awareness to resolve?  :)  I love it.  Hate Rubik’s cubes, love tricky circuit board layout.

When the circuit board design was done, the final mechanical enclosure design basically fell out of it.  I do have fancy circuit board software, but I don’t have fancy mechanical design software.  Plus, the box itself was an off-the-shelf part, so I really just needed to make drawings for the custom machining operations that indicated hole size, shape, and location.  It was a total pain in the ass, but I managed to browbeat my circuit board software into spitting out some 2D mechanical drawings.

SM Mech Drawings

Which the box company turned into much nicer drawings.

Polycase_snip

Which UPS has told me has turned into boxes that are shipping to me today!

Some of you might be asking yourselves “Couldn’t she have saved some money on the beta units by drilling those holes and cutouts by hand?”  Uh, actually, no.  ABS plastic is a pain in the ass to work using hand tools.  It tends to melt and spooge out of the way instead of cut nicely.  Holes turn out oblong for no apparent reason.  The centerpunch always manages to slip at the last minute, making your hole locations off so you have to drill them out.  I did manage to do one box by hand, and it’s even good enough for some very controlled beauty shots, but I wouldn’t give that ugly ducking to a paying beta tester, that’s for sure.  If I’m going to make a production unit, it’s going to look like a production unit.

Lastly (I know, right?  There’s yet another thing?!), there was the overlay design.  I originally thought about having a custom membrane switch made for the top.  They’re the style used on a lot of kitchen appliances and cheap remote controls.  They’re relatively flat plastic but have little domed buttons you press.  Well, a full-on custom membrane switch with the integrated buttons and flexible circuitry was prohibitively expensive.  Even in quantities of 100, they were still $50ish each.  Not including setup costs.  So that wasn’t gonna happen.  The next best thing (and much less expensive thing) was a custom plastic label with embossed sections, which would stick to the top of the cover and over physical button stalks that would poke up through holes in the cover.  It was mechanically more complex for me to implement because I had to coordinate button placement on the circuit board , hole cutouts in the cover, and embossed sections on the overlay.  But they’re  only about $8 in qtys of 100, have good tactile feel from the physical buttons, yet have the same professional look of a membrane switch, so they’re a much better solution.

Overlay_snip

I should also mention that the overlay is the one place where I sought external professional help.  As much as I’m good with dyes and yarn and circuit boards, I am not so good with graphic design.  I mean, I have a discriminating eye and can tell you what I like and don’t like and why, but when I put something together myself, it tends to look like it was done by an engineer.  You know?  Everything is too square and neat.  I’m fortunate to work with a terrific graphic designer (who is also a terrific knitter), Kimberly Roy, who put the finishing touches on the SkeinMinder.

Why the fancy overlay in the first place?  I mean, why not just use a sticker with some holes for the buttons?  Well, if you’ve ever done a boatload of yarn winding, you’ll know exactly why.  It’s pretty dirty business.  Dust and tiny little yarn fibers go everywhere and pile up, and I don’t want them to get into the enclosure and muck up the button works.  It’s also nice to have a clear plastic layer over the LCD, to protect it from scratches.  Plus, it also gives the enclosure a tiny bit more splash resistance for when you knock your beer over.  :)

So, yeah.  That was pretty much my July and August right there.  Everything from designing circuit boards to specifying enclosures, to designing overlays.  I can’t even tell you how rewarding it is to see it all coming together.  My poor friends are getting pictures of electronics and texts with A LOT OF CAPSLOCK AND EXCLAMATION POINTS EVERY DAY!!!!!

Are you ready for a peek?  Fortunately you can’t see my really badly hand-drilled misaligned holes though the paper overlay mock-up.  :)

Drumroll, please.  May I present….

The SkeinMinder ™

Not bad for a techie chick with a computer and a small workshop, huh?

Want SkeinMinder news?  Sign up here.
Want to be on the beta program waiting list?  Fill out this form here.


The Mythical Blue-Red Club is OPEN!

I’m psyched to announce the first installment of the Alpenglow Yarn Dyer’s Club!

Club Flyer, Mythical Blue Red crop highres

In a post a few months back, I talked about how I really wanted to do more explorations of natural dyes, and share those with people.  And I want to do that on a level deeper than Hey, so cochineal is red and indigo is blue and here’s how you make a red and here’s how you make a blue.  I want to explore the questions that came up when I was dyeing production batches, things like – how do I make that particular shade of red, and how do I do it repeatably?

There’s kind of a hole in the information available on natural dyeing.  For thousands of years, it was experiential lore passed down from generation to generation.  Most of it was based on observation – I did this and that happened.  Right around the time when science started to flourish, natural dyeing on a large scale pretty much ground to a halt.  Why?  Because synthetic dyes were first created.  In fact, some people date the beginning of the Industrial Revolution as the year in which William Henry Perkin accidentally discovered mauve, 1856.

Sources of dye knowledge available now generally fall into two categories – the home dyer’s reference and the organic chemistry tome.  The home dyer’s reference is usually written by a textile artist with several years experience in using natural dyes.  It generally suffices to get you started, explains basic mordanting, and gives an overview of several dye stuffs.  It’s full of general knowledge and rules of thumb.  It can also be full of erroneous jumps to conclusions and misinformation.  These books are no help when one batch turns out a different shade than another.  Or when a recipe you’ve used a hundred times is suddenly turning your yarn brown and brittle.  A lot of people will just throw their arms up and say Well, that’s natural dyeing for you.  But there are actually scientific reasons that these things happen.  So then you start digging through an organic chemistry book and realize that frosh chem was a hell of a long time ago and not all that useful.  Digging out fact-based knowledge and practices that are understandable to someone without a chemistry degree, and also relevant to hand-dyeing wool, is like finding a needle in a haystack.

It’s definitely a goal of mine to bring a more scientific context to natural dyeing in an understandable way.  And also to debunk some common misconceptions.  (I’ve been thinking about doing a post on The Great Mordant Debate for a few years now, and I think I’ll actually be writing that one soon.)  One of my goals with this club is to not only provide members with beautiful yarn, but also provide insight into the science behind the colors.  I think of my audience as both knitters and experienced natural dyers alike, and seek to provide relevant information on how to repeatably and successfully naturally dye wool a certain color.

But I’ve blabbed enough about my super deep dye motivations.  Let’s hit the juice! (as our wine appreciation teacher would say.)

First up is The Mythical Blue-Red.  This is a color I’ve managed to create once, maybe twice, but is a devil to reproduce.  It’s the color of red velvet ropes, of fancy theater curtains, of dragon scales.  The kind of red that drinks in your eyeballs and sucks the blood out of you (in Soviet Russia….color drinks you!)  I’ll focus on how to create this color out of cochineal, because it provides the most fade-resistant fast red.  I should note that this color tends to be the natural color you get out of brazilwood.  Why not just use it?  It’s not quite as lightfast.  Really, it’s totally fine for the typical life of a piece of knitwear, but I worry about someone leaving their yarn in a south-facing window in summer for too long (I’m probably overly paranoid, I know) .  I may dye one of the samples with brazilwood, just for reference.

I read everyone’s responses to my survey about the club, and noticed a definite and quite funny trend.  Anyone who was primarily a dyer wanted the option that was more colors and less yardage.  Anyone who was primarily a knitter wanted the option that was fewer colors and more yardage.  :)  So I’ve given you both, plus one more for those of you that want both colors AND yardage.

  • No Frills – $65 – for the budget-conscious who still want all the colors: Members receive 100 yd skeins of 8 colors in the Smerf base (100% superwash merino, fingering weight), dye notes, and nothing else.  Ships in a USPS first-class tyvek envelope.
  • Knitter’s – $110 – for those who want a little more yarn and don’t mind fewer colors: Members receive 200 yd skeins of 6 colors in the Springy Corrie Sport base (100% Corriedale, very springy sport weight, 100% USA made), dye notes, and a few goodies.  Ships in a USPS Priority Mail box.
  • Gimme Gimme – $140 – for those who want it all: Members receive 200 yd skeins of 8 colors in the Smerf base (100% superwash merino, fingering weight), dye notes, and a few of my favorite things.  Ships in a USPS Priority Mail box.

But what if there’s this color that you really really love and you want a full skein?  Or enough full skeins to make a sweater?  Well, after you get your club shipment, you have a month in which you can order full skeins of any of the club colors for 20% off.  How does that sound?

All members receive their choice of yarn above, complete dyer’s notes about the processes involved and what influences contributed to each color, as well as the final dye recipes for each.  I’ll also include some project ideas for using the coordinating mini-skeins.  I’ll leave the club open until it either sells out, or September 22nd rolls around.  Shipments go out October 31st, 2014.

I hope you’re as excited about this as I am!  I can’t wait to get to those dye pots!


%d bloggers like this: